By Franz Scheurer
Bar H is hidden away at the bottom of Campbell Street (the Elizabeth Street end) and you don’t really notice it is there until you’re right in front of it. It’s a ‘corner store’ with a terrific makeover, albeit obvious that the renovations were done on a budget. Reminds me a bit of the early days of Bentley Restaurant & Bar. Bar H is a long, narrow room, with an impressive wine wall on one side and an exposed kitchen on the other, separated from the floor by a bar area where you can sit, eat, drink and watch the action. Tables are on the opposite wall with a banquette running the length of the room to the wine wall and a larger table (for groups of up to 7) takes up the front, together with a ‘window bar’ where you can watch the street scenes, being the big fish in the small bowl. The theme is black with dark blue banquettes and the atmosphere changes depending on the time of day you visit. A perfect breakfast spot doubling as a hip and modern dinner location speaks volumes about the amount of thought that has obviously gone into the design of this place.
The first time we visited Bar H we went in for breakfast. I was happy to see that the pastry was by Chris The of Black Star and Hamish Ingham’s food is finger-licking good and the coffee is excellent. Rebecca Lines keeps the floor humming and manages to anticipate what you'll need next. A serving of ‘House Cured Ocean Trout, Horseradish & Toast’ ($18) It’s a very generous serving that looks terrific and tastes better and I love the simplicity of the ‘Poached Eggs with Organic Chicken Livers, Pancetta & Iceberg Salad’ ($18) with the livers cooked to perfection. Obviously they are taking Alice Waters’ quote: ‘Good food depends almost entirely on good ingredients’ very seriously. A divine (and huge) ‘Pistachio Macaroon’ and an off the scale ‘Earl Grey Soaked Prune Tart’ ($10) finish our breakfast. I have to say that the custard on the prune tart is a work of art!
Dinner was next, a few days later, and although we arrived rather late, the place was packed and jumping. Settling in the back of the room we shared plates as the menu is designed this way and it’s a fun way to eat. We had the ‘Roast Sichuan Spiced Almonds’ ($6), the ‘Deep Fried Globe Artichokes with Fennel Aioli’, ($14) the ‘Crumbed Ortiz Anchovies with Lemon’ ($14) and the ‘Grilled Sourdough with Lardo & Roast Garlic’ ($10). Next we indulged in ‘Kitchen Charcuterie Selection’ ($26) which is a meal in itself and an absolutely stunning ‘Pickled Ox Tongue, Breakfast Radish & Green Sauce’ ($19). This was followed by ‘Cuttlefish Salad with Fresh Broad Beans & Watercress’ ($22), ‘House Made Ricotta & Heirloom Tomato Salad’ ($16) and a plate of ‘Carrots with Honey & Sage’ ($14). I don’t quite know where we put all that food but there was not a scrap left and the portions were certainly generous. My conclusion is simple: bloody good food! Oh.. and we tried all three desserts, the ‘Bay Leaf Custard Verjuice Caramel’ ($10), the ‘Fresh Strawberries, Woodside Goats’ Curd, Aged Balsamic & Basil’ ($10) and we just had to have the ‘Earl Grey Soaked Prune Tart’ ($10) again.
The wine list is good and the choices by the glass excellent. The only reservation I do have is the fact that such a large number of bottles are exposed to what I would consider rather fluctuating temperatures, on the open wine wall. Let’s hope that they turn their wines over frequently.
Value for money is excellent and the service is exemplary. They manage to give each table the impression that they’re the only patrons that matter and in a room full of clients that is not easy. They succeed.
There are three dishes that stand out: the sourdough with lardo, the pickled ox tongue and the prune tart. You must try them! There is also an option (the whole table must participate) to order ‘Hamish’s Banquet’ ($85).
It seems clear to me that Hamish Ingham is capable of producing complicated, challenging food and it’s also obvious he chose not to do this but serve superbly fresh food with outstanding produce; fare that works and has synergy with Bar H.
Did I like it: You bet!
Would I go again: Absolutely; please open a Bar H in our neighbourhood!
Noise: 91 DB
Score: 7.5/10
For more information:
Bar H
80 Campbell Street
Surry Hills
Tel.: 02 9280 1980
Web: http://www.barhsurryhills.com
You can follow Hamish Ingham on Twitter: barhsurryhills
