By Franz Scheurer
One of the forerunners of terrific food at excellent value for money, Matthew Kemp has moved Balzac to larger premises in Randwick. A beautiful old two-storey sandstone building now houses a much larger restaurant. The space is clean, sensitively restored, alas completely devoid of any sound-damping materials and therefore very noisy when full, which is most of the time.
You can either order a-la-carte from a very appetising menu, or enjoy the five-course degustation very reasonably priced at $ 75 per head.
We start with ‘Tortellini of Marron and Scallop with a Citrus Dressing’, the ‘Pigs Head ‘Schnitzel’, Pigs Ears, Sauce Gribiche and Fried Onion Rings’, the ‘Risotto of Wagyu Shin, Sautéed Field Mushrooms and Horseradish’ and the ‘Jerusalem Artichoke and Taleggio Swiss Roll with Witlof and Walnut Salad’.
Every single entrée is excellent and the risotto superb. Great flavours, good presentation and ample portions. A bottle of Louis Sipp Tokay Pinot Gris, ordered from the intelligent wine list, works splendidly with the food.
For mains we order the ‘Roast Leg of Bangalow Pork, Caramelised Parsnips and Pomme Fondant’, ‘Breast of Glenloth Chicken with Sweetcorn, Salsify and Foie Gras Ravioli’, ‘Sauté of Gnocchi, Asparagus and Fresh Peas with White Truffle Oil’ and the ‘Roast Barramundi with Braised Lentils, Confit Carrots and Bone Marrow’.
Again, the food is excellent. The chicken is probably the best dish and the ravioli served with it are stunning.
On a separate visit we enjoyed an amazing ‘Risotto of Black Pudding and Confit Chicken Wing with Roast Scallop’ and an equally wonderful appetiser of ‘Wagyu Salty Balls with Wild Rocket and Hazelnut’, a paper-thin slice of raw Wagyu,
wrapped around a centre of foie gras. I’m also particularly enamoured of the ‘N.Z. Venison Loin with Celeriac and Pear Gratin, Red Wine and Juniper Jus’, a perfect winter comfort dish, although with a surprising and pleasing light touch.
We still find room for desserts (there’s always room for desserts) and we share the ‘Hot Chocolate Fondant with White Chocolate Ice Cream’, the ‘Mandarin Jelly with Fresh Passionfruit and Longans’, the ‘Poached Pear, Prune and Almond Tart’ and the ‘Banana and Hazelnut Bombe Alaska’. The desserts are good, well presented with the bombe being the stand-out dish.
Service, which can be a bit slow in the ‘settling in period’, is focused, friendly and professional.
It might just be a suburban restaurant in Randwick but people from all over Sydney flock here for the food, and so they should. Matthew Kemp’s formula is terrific food, an interesting wine list and caring service at excellent value for money. No wonder it is always full!
Score: 8/10
For more information or bookings:
Restaurant Balzac
141 Belmore Road
Randwick NSW 2031
Tel.: 02 9399 9660