By Franz Scheurer
Having established a faithful following in Newtown, Restaurant Atelier’s move to new premises in Glebe adds stylish surroundings to the proven formula of Mod Oz food with a strong French influence.
It’s a concentration of hustle and bustle, noise and conviviality, hectic activity all held together by the crimson walls, the quirky artwork, large wall-mirrors, a sea of white tablecloths (covered with white paper) and a sparkle of cutlery and glassware.
Front of house staff flit here, there and everywhere, trying to do seven things at once and mainly succeeding. The menu is stimulating and the wine list downright idiosyncratic and eccentric.
While we peruse the menu we nibble on good sourdough with tapenade and terrific, portion-wrapped Échiré butter. For our entrées we try the ‘Bourbon Cured Ocean Trout Ballotine with Herb Fromage Blanc, Ocean Trout Roe (unpasteurised) & Watercress Salad’ and an ‘Assiette of Thirlmere Duck’. The Assiette presents well and is competent and the ocean trout is excellent.
For mains we order the ‘Roasted Boned & Rolled White Rabbit w Shiitake & Eschallot, Braised French Snails & Parsnip Purée’, the ‘Roasted Squab, Creamed Organic Savoy Cabbage, Sautéed Girolles’ and the ‘Assiette of Pork’. All three mains present well and portions are generous. The squab is easily the best dish with the rabbit a close second. The pork, although faultless, is a little dull and déjà vu.
We enjoy the Louis Sipp Riesling from Alsace and welcome the great value for money this wine list offers. Service is efficient and friendly and you can’t help feeling that this is a great, uncomplicated neighbourhood restaurant that goes the extra mile.
We end a pleasant (albeit noisy) evening with Assiette of Pear… seems it was a night for many morsels on one plate.
Score: 6.5/10
For more information or bookings:
Restaurant ATELIER
22 Glebe Point Road Glebe 2037
Tel: 02 9566 2112