Out of Africa

By Franz Scheurer

One of the survivors of the Sydney dining scene, Out of Africa, in Manly, still packs them in, night after night.

The brightly coloured walls match the casual setting, the tables spill out onto a covered terrace. Not the place for a romantic dinner for two, the noise levels from large groups can be deafening and the hustle and bustle can’t be ignored.

The menu is an interesting mix of Moroccan and Africanesque, and there are always a few specials on the blackboard. The wine list is appropriate and there are a few wines by the glass.

The food is a roller coaster ride. The broad bean dip, surprisingly, is served hot and the beetroot and dill dips are excellent. The ‘Brouats’, ‘Bricks’, ‘Beureks’, ‘Böreks’, all Mediterranean names for little stuffed filo parcels, are woeful. The pastry is too thick and gluggy and the sweet sauce accompaniment (we had mango on one visit and orange on another) is, to my taste, an abomination. The ‘Zulu Zuluk’ a warm salad of eggplant, capsicum, tomato, preserved lemons and olives, served on a slice of semolina bread is exquisite, hot and tangy without overshadowing the essence of the vegetables and presents very well and works a treat as an entrée or with any of the meat Tajines. The Moroccan Meat Ball Tajine (signature dish) is simply stunning. On a recent visit we ordered it again after we finished the first one. The meatballs are perfect, the sauce sublime and the egg (cooked in the sauce) just right. Add some harissa and more preserved lemons (both available as side dishes) and you have the perfect dish. The food is subtly spicy and refreshingly aromatic and a spicy red wine or a beer works well with it.

As far as desserts are concerned, all I can say is: don’t!

Service is efficient, attentive and friendly. I’d go back for the Moroccan Meat Ball Tajine!

Score: 5.5/10

For more information or bookings:

Out of Africa

43 – 45 East Esplanade

Manly NSW 2095

Tel.: 02 9977 0055