By Franz Scheurer
The 3 Weeds is a Sydney institution. A pub since 1881, it has served as a live music venue, watering hole for many a passing thirsty soul, home-away-from -home for locals and meeting place for the upwardly mobile. There is a section of the hotel to suit all tastes, and my favourite is the restaurant.
You walk through the busy front bar and enter a quiet, smoke-free atmosphere where soundproof glass shields you from the noise outside. Warm brown tones with beige carpet invite you to relax, and a terrific menu grabs your attention.
John Evans (ex-Northbridge Bistro and CBD) runs the burners, while Sonia, his wife, looks after front of house. They’re both good at what they do and it shows in the attention to detail.
A creamy, but ethereal, potato and leek shot whet our appetite for the entrées of ‘Kurobutapork rillettes with crackling salad, granny smith apple dressing and sourdough croutons’, the ‘Oxheart tomato and fig salad with brioche crumbed Meredith goats cheese and balsamic dressing’ and the ‘Roasted quail breast and confit quail leg with scotch egg, green bean and manzanilla olive salad’. The rillettes were dense but light with just the right amount of croutons but the oxheart tomato dish was the hero: beautifully simple using top produce and perfectly presented. The quail was great and, although quite salty, the confit worked in the combination and the halved Scotch egg was a touch of visual brilliance (and the beans were tender).
For mains we tried the ‘Pan roasted barramundi with smoked eggplant purée, oven dried tomatoes and sauce gribiche’, the ‘Roasted pork loin “saltimbocca” with slow cooked pork belly, English spinach, caramelised apples and cider’ and the ‘Pink roasted rump of veal with polenta and parmesan fondant, baby carrots, beans and green lentils’. The eggplant purée with the barramundi was sensational and the fish was expertly cooked, however the quality of the fish itself was questionable (very muddy). The pork was simply superb while the veal was competent, although a little ‘safe’ in its flavours (and the apprentice definitely needs more patience stirring the polenta). A side dish of snowpeas with almonds worked perfectly with all the mains.
An Alsatian Riesling complemented the food and the glassware was particularly appropriate. The wine list is quite small but there’s something for everyone. We even found a Kracher dessert wine!
For dessert we tried the ‘Raspberry and Moscato d'Asti jelly, vanilla pannacotta and fresh raspberries’ and the ‘Ginger creme brulée with fresh fig, Ligurian honey and pistachio tuile’. The desserts were good, though the pannacotta was too firm to excite.
Service was attentive and professional. Timing was good and the presentation of the food first rate. Portions are just right and value for money is good. I must admit I have always loved John Evans’ food but I do think he’s matured and so far this is his best. This is a great pub to have a beer with your mates, share a cocktail with an intended, or a romantic dinner in the restaurant. I love it.
Score: 7.5/10
For more information or bookings:
3 Weeds
197 Evans Street
Rozelle
Tel.: 02 9818 2788