1945 - Dutch East Indies
Cuisine
By Franz Scheurer
11th May 2010
When you eat out as much as I do, you can’t help but get excited when you make a discovery, find a restaurant that punches way above its expected weight.
Last night we wandered in to 1945 a restaurant amongst the cluster of shops at the end of Harris Street, almost down at the water. It’s the site where Blue Eye Dragon used to be and it has been transformed into a cosy eatery, specialising in Dutch East Indies cuisine. The Dutch East Indies was the Dutch Colony that is now modern Indonesia. The Dutch Colonial feast, Rijsttafel (literally meaning rice table) was invented during this era, showcasing the abundance of exotic spices of the Indonesian archipelago, and it remains a popular dish, even after the country’s independence in 1945 (hence the name of the restaurant).
1945 invites the diner onto a journey back in time, and they succeed admirably.
If you’re a vegetarian you’ll love the fact that there are quite a few vegetarian dishes on the menu, but more importantly there is a set menu, the Vegetarian Rijsttafel 2 ($30, available for 1), which caters 100% for vegetarians. If you’re here for the first time, then I suggest you have the Grand Rijsttafel ($80 for 2) and I promise you will not leave hungry! It consists of ‘Nasi Koening’ (Turmeric Rice), ‘Nasi Oedoek’ (Coconut Rice), ‘Sate Babi’ (Grilled Pork Skewer), ‘Ajam Panggang Ketjap’ (Grilled Chicken), Oedang Panggang Goerih’ (Grilled Prawn), ‘Tjoemi Goreng Tepoeng’ (Fried Calamari), ‘Rendang Daging’ (Indonesian Beef Curry), ‘Tempe Teri Jatjang Goreng’ (Fried Soybean & Anchovies), ‘Sajur Asem’ (Tamaring Soup), ‘Perkedel Djaggoeng’ (Corn Fritter), ‘Perkedel Kentang Daging’ (Potato Fritter), ‘Terong Belado’ (Eggplant with Chili), ‘Sambal Goreng Kentang Buntjis’ (Stir-fried French Beans), ‘Kreopoek Oedang’ (Prawn Crackers), ‘Atjar Bening’ (Pickles) and finally ‘Seroendeng’ (Spiced Grated Coconut’).
These are the savoury dishes and they’re presented on a large, wooden square and you are given plates and cutlery, although no-one will blink if you use your right hand to eat with (and it’s a lot more tactile). The food is as good as I have eaten it in the best places in Indonesia. There are no compromises made for the Western palate and it’s an absolute joy to eat there. I loved every dish and if I had to name a dish of the night, it might have to be the Rendang, a fabulously fragrant piece of meat, cooked dry (so not with lots of sauce like you find in Malaysia), it’s sensational.
Just when you thought you couldn’t possible eat another thing, the dessert appears (it’s part of the Grand Rijsttafel), a lovely glass full of young Coconut Cream, Pandanus Jelly and Gula Melaka.
They have an extensive menu, divided into Appetisers, Main Dishes, Seafood Dishes, Meat Dishes, Soup Dishes, Vegetable Dishes, Side Menu and Condiments, so the adventurous you can put together your own banquet.
The wine list needs work, lots of work… in reality it’s a blessing that a terrific bottle shop, called 42 Harris Cellars, is just next door; mind you, the restaurant does have a good selection of Indonesian sweet drinks and beers.
Service is attentive and knowledgeable and it’s great to see that language does not present a barrier here at all.
Will I be back: Absolutely, until I have tried every dish on the menu
Did I like it: Immensely. Probably the best Indonesian food in Sydney at present
Noise: 66 db
Value for money: ridiculously good
Selamat Makan
Score: 7/10
For more information or bookings:
1945 Dutch East Indies Cuisine
Suite 2
42 Harris Street
Pyrmont
Tel.: 02 9660 9699
e-mail: DINE@1945.com.au
