izakaya

The Japanese Pub Cookbook by Mark Robinson

Book Review by Franz Scheurer

I first met Mark Robinson at Hideo Dekura’s birthday dinner. Hideo-san, a Japanese Masterchef, introduced us and I found Robinson’s missives fascinating. He was born in Japan, raised in Sydney and now lives in Tokyo, writing for numerous publications and he has just released his book on Japanese pub cooking, called ‘izakaya’.

Much has been written about Japanese haute-cuisine and little attention has focused on the cuisine of the people. The izakaya, a tiny haven of contemplation, good food and social intercourse has been largely ignored by the West, partly due to its intimidating status, almost hidden entrances, lack of any language other than Japanese and the fact that the chef reigns supreme, accepting or denying your patronage, but the real soul of the locals is here, not up the road where 26 staff cater for 12 customers.

The first thing that might happen when you enter an izakaya is that somebody will yell at you. This might be rather startling until you are told that the forcefulness of the greeting is equated to the sincerity of the emotions displayed. Then you are asked how many people are in your party and it is best to answer by sticking up the correct number of fingers. Once accepted you are directed to your space (be that at the serving counter or tiny table) and asked what you would like to drink. This is the time where you will notice that the izakaya devotes the same attention to drink as it pays to food. izakayas' customers know what they want to drink and they want it straight away, so the perceived ‘pushy’ attitude of the waitstaff to get your drink order is simply natural and expected.

Due to the lack of space in Japan izakayas had to improvise and come up with new ways of utilizing space and manpower. It is not uncommon for chefs to spend time on the floor and the waitstaff time in the kitchen. This means that at peak time everyone knows everyone else’s job and can help out, leading to a synchronized culinary ballet that’s worth seeing.

The old is revered and respected in Japan, resulting in izakayas operating for a long time become highly regarded, regardless of their culinary credentials. It is interesting to note that izakayas are not that old, due to frequent earth quakes, fires and wartime devastation. The oldest izakaya in Tokyo dates back little more than a century. The tradition of having a drink and a snack after work is ingrained, however.

The food is unpretentious and consists mainly of small dishes to be shared, listed in typical izakaya format from char broiled to deep-fried, vegetables, sashimi, rice and noodles. Regional specialties might feature as well, e.g. Kyoto dishes. izakayas have a signature taste ruled by the dashi soups and ever-simmering stocks. If the stocks change, there is no doubt that patrons will know. izakayas often discourage Westerners, as they fear that the lack of a common language might lead to dissatisfaction. It’s chefs like Keiji Mori at Maru that make it their life mission to make izakayas accessible, even providing an English menu.

Sake, shochu and beer play an enormously important role in your neighbourhood izakaya but wines are catching up fast. The food is hearty, yet dainty, and the recipes in the book are mouth-watering. Start with something light but challenging like ‘Pu-erh Tea-glazed Walnuts’ and I particularly like the simplicity of ‘Deep-fried Stuffed Peppers’ and ‘Julienned Potatoes with Spicy Cod Roe’. ‘Foil-baked Mushrooms’ feature a very Japanese approach to produce, highlighting its aromas and flavours without interference. Tilefish is deep-fried with the scales on, adding a crunchy texture to the succulence of the fish and I recognize Western leanings in the ‘Fresh Corn Kakiage Tempura’. If you hanker for something a little more filling try ‘Simmered Kamo eggplant and Pork Loin’ or ‘Fried Shrimp Quenelles’. ‘Sweet Miso-marinated Fish’ has become a bit of a fad outside Japan and ‘Fried Tofu Stuffed with Raclette Cheese’ might sound like an abomination but it’s very Japanese in presentation and flavours, although its aromas might bring back long buried memories of Switzerland.

France might have the cassoulet and Italy the bollito misto but in Japan’s izakaya you search out the ‘Motsu’ or ‘Beef Intestine Stew’. It is a rich, deeply flavoured miso broth with lots of innards, cooked for a very long time. Apart from the occasional moan of pleasure little will be heard from the diners ordering this dish. Another, possibly confronting aroma will emanate from the miso-cured tofu, cured for two years, turning the inoffensive, almost flavourless curd into a feral, wonderfully fragrant ‘blue cheese-like’ spreadable delicacy. I love it and once you get over the initial shock, so will you (I hope). One of the easiest recipes to duplicate at home would have to be the ‘Grilled Chicken Breasts with Ume Plum Paste’, a succulent, deep-flavoured way to present chicken. The Japanese often pair chicken, the sour ume plum and shiso leaves and the ‘Ume-shiso Rolled Chicken’ is typical of this flavour profile. My favourite in the whole book has to be ‘Fried Whole Garlic with Miso’. Its beautiful aromas and flavours are a study in simplicity and intensity (and keeps everyone away the next day).

The book is paying homage to Horoyoi, Maru, Saiki, Shinsuke, Yamariki, Hiro, Morimoto and Buchi and an informing section on Japanese Aromatics and a couple of pages on the history of izakayas. It’s clearly laid out, with engaging photography to match.

I apologize for the rather lengthy review but it is not often that I am so captivated by a book that I read every word, then go back to re-read my favourite passages. This is such a book and if you’re interested in Japan and its working culture and only own one book, then this has to be the one.

izakaya: The Japanese Pub Cookbook

ISBN: 978-4-7700-3065-8

Published by Kodansha International

Distributed by Bookwise International, RRP $39.95

Available for good book stores