Red
Comparison
By Franz Scheurer
We conducted a red wine comparison over the weekend, from a gaggle of new releases we’d received.
The following wines were tasted and assessed (in order of tasting):
Kay Brothers Amery Vineyards
Merlot, McLaren Vale, 2003
Kay Brothers Amery Vineyards MGM (Merlot Grenache Mataro), McLaren Vale, 2002
d’Arenberg ‘The Twentyeight Road’
Mourvèdre, McLaren Vale + Langhorne Creek, 2004
Beresford Cabernet Sauvignon,
McLaren Vale, 2004
Kay Brothers Amery Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale, 2003
Step Rd Cabernet Sauvignon,
Langhorne Creek, 2004
Peerick Vineyard Reserve Shiraz,
Pyrenees, 2002
Kay Brothers Amery Vineyards
Shiraz, McLaren Vale, 2003
Kay Brothers Amery Vineyards
Block 6 Shiraz, McLaren Vale, 2003
Kay Brothers Amery Vineyards
Hillside Shiraz, McLaren Vale, 2003
Beresford Shiraz, McLaren Vale,
2004
d’Arenberg ‘The Laughing Magpie’
Shiraz Viognier, McLaren Vale, 2004
All of these wines were eminently drinkable and the McLaren Vale Shiraz terroir was the most prominent. The Cabernet Sauvignons were the most varietally true and would stand out in any blind line up for what they are.
The following wines were the panel’s favourites (in order of tasting, not preference):
d’Arenberg ‘The
Twentyeight Road’ Mourvèdre, McLaren Vale + Langhorne Creek, 2004
Quite feral on the nose, with earthy, dark berry undertones. On the palate it is slow to assert itself, very smooth despite the strong tannins. The fruit, mainly dark berries, comes to the fore and the slightly barnyardy flavours reappear retro-nasally. Medium length, good drinking now or cellar for 5 years.
Unmistakably Cabernet Sauvignon with lots of green capsicum and a touch of smoke on the nose. On the palate it is coconutty, quite sweet with lots of red berries and a touch of white chocolate. At this stage the oak is still a touch too strong but we feel that this wine will benefit a lot from further ageing.
This Reserve Shiraz comes from the coolest year since the vineyard was established in the early 1990s. The Reserve is the result of a blend of the most impressive barrels and shows a lot of chocolate with dried fruit and raisins on the nose. A good, textured mouth-feel insures the fruit is noticed (mainly crab apple and custard apple) despite the relatively high oak component. We detected both vanilla and coconut confirming that this wine is double-oaked with American and French oak and I have no doubt that it will benefit from further ageing.
What a wine! Hand picked from 111 year old vines (surely these must be some of the oldest Shiraz vines in the world). Lots of dark chocolate and some Chinese masterstock on the nose with dark undertones. Quite closed at first. Opens up in the glass tremendously, it would be worthwhile decanting this wine and leaving it to breathe for a couple of hours before drinking. Once you sip it, it is immediately mouth-filling with dark fruit, plums and raisins and lots of meaty undertones. Very structured with excellent fruit, amazing complexity and superb length. The finish brings a touch of cooked strawberries to the fore. A wine reminiscent of Wendouree, this is a serious, full on “fist in the glove” type of wine. This was the panel's favourite wine both without, and with, food.
This is a big bold wine, although at 14% it is nowhere near the high mark of alcohol in this line up (that honour goes to the Kay Brothers Merlot at 15.5%). It is really quite elegant with a chocolate and cassis-like nose opening up to deep, dark berries, sweet heather and new oak. Tobacco features at the end of the palate. The finish is shorter than expected and quite thin. Another food wine!
d’Arenberg ‘The Laughing Magpie’ Shiraz Viognier, McLaren
Vale, 2004
Amazingly floral on the nose, with the illusion of strolling through a spring meadow. Typically with Shiraz Viognier blends the colour is darker than expected and the floral nose is lifted. On the palate it is complex, tight, and although some of the floral notes are confirmed this is all about structured tannins and lively, bright fruit. A slightly acidic finish makes this a wonderful food wine and it was in fact the panel's second favourite wine with food.
All of these wines represent good value for money and should be easily available either retail or direct from the winery.
For more information:
d’Arenberg:08 8323 8206
Beresford Wines: 08 8323 8899
Kay Brothers: 08 8323 8201
Peerick Vineyard: 03 9817 1554
Step Rd: 08 8537 3342