New
Zealand – South Island
By Franz Scheurer
We took a quick break in New Zealand recently, the wonderfully picturesque South Island, a chocolate box paradise with no equal in Australasia. It’s just a 3-hour flight from Sydney to Christchurch (with Emirates), then jump in a hire car and head off to the rugged mountains, icy-green lakes, wide ‘braided’ rivers and relaxed down-to-earth people, as well as some excellent wines, good food and grand accommodation. Here are the highlights:
The Bodhi Tree
In Christchurch we came across this somewhat unusual restaurant, specializing in the cuisine of Burma. Burmese Chef Khin Maung Oo (known as Lee) opened The Bodhi Tree in 2003 with his New Zealand wife Beverley Humpage. It’s obviously popular as it’s always full with people queuing for a table. Wafts of steamed mussels hit you as you walk in, intermingled with savoury, lemongrassy undertones. The place is simply furnished and functional and it’s fairly obvious that the crowd is here for the food. Like most South East Asians, Burmese eat rice, first and foremost. All the other dishes are there to flavour the rice and, although not as pungent as Thai food, the familiar balance of flavours (sweet, sour, salty, hot) is evident. All dishes are meant to be served at once and shared. We ordered the ‘Tohu Jo’, a ‘tofu’ made from yellow split peas, served with roasted garlic and a tomato relish; more like a deep-fried polenta cake, only smoother, and although nothing like the tofu we know, delicious. The ‘Vegetable Ajoo’ was tempura like, lightly battered and deep-fried, preserving the texture and taste of the vegetables and the ‘Timbody Thoke’, a salad of shredded green papaya dressed with lemon, dried shrimp, shallots, peanuts and olive oil’ was lightly spicy and considerably mushier than its Thai cousin. A serve of ‘Pet Toke’ the Burmese take on pot-sticker dumplings was glassy and appetizingly sticky and the ‘Seit Da Kin’, cubes of lamb, marinated in spices, grilled and served on a skewer with a chilli and mint dip, was probably the best dish of the night. Their signature dish of ‘Kiyu Byoke’, fresh mussels steamed with garlic, coriander and a hint of chilli was terrific, although I could have done with a lot more chilli. They are licensed (try the Myanmar beer), the service is friendly and reasonably quick and value for money is excellent.
For more information:
The Bodhi Tree
808 Colombo Street, Christchurch, New Zealand
Tel.: +64 3 377 6808
Le Bon Bolli
Banned from using the Bollinger name, Phillip and Helen Kraal opted for Le Bon Bolli as the name of their Christchurch brasserie, bar and restaurant. A cosy space with lots of wood, pictures, curios and wonderful domed ceiling, they are open from just before lunch until late, making it an attractive place for a late lunch or early dinner. The brasserie menu is written in French, with English subtitles and offers hearty and filling dishes that are good value for money. The service staff is particularly friendly and the wine list is extensive with a terrific selection by the glass. You can feast on onion soup, snails, terrines, rillettes, mussels, casseroles or a number of braised, fried, sautéed and seared meats but whatever you order, don’t forget the French Fries with the homemade mayo!
For more information:
Le Bon Bolli
Cnr. Montreal Street and Worcester Boulevard, Christchurch, New Zealand
Tel.: +64 3 374 9444
e-mail: lebonbolli@xtra.co.nz
Web: http://www.lebonbolli.co.nz/
Whisky Galore
It seems that the Scottish heritage of so many New Zealanders has encouraged an appreciation of whisky, greater than I’d have expected in the antipodes. The selection available in major cities is good and in Christchurch you mustn’t miss Whisky Galore. This is utter heaven for whisky fans! A shop with literally hundreds of whiskies on display! Michael Fraser Milne and his daughter Seonaid know their whiskies and are happy to pour you a dram to aid the selection process. Michael has been instrumental in spreading the whisky word in New Zealand and incredibly successful in helping to organise events like the DramFest, which attracted thousands of visitors in 2007 (the special Pulteney 1989 – 17y/o, cask strength DramFest bottling is bloody good too).
For more information:
Whisky Galore
797 Colombo Street, Christchurch, New Zealand
Tel.: +64 3 377 6824
e-mail: info@whiskygalore.co.nz
Web: http://www.whiskygalore.co.nz
The Southern
Distilling Company
Contrary to popular belief, there is a working whisky distillery on New Zealand’s South Island, in Timaru, and they produce an interesting spirit. Every famous centre of Whisky production has its origins in moonshine, illicitly distilled spirit often of dubious quality, and, although now perfectly legal and safe, Southern Distilling Company’s Old Hokonui whisky shows a skull and crossbones on its label and is bottled in an old pharmaceutical bottle. This quirky way of bottling reminds us of the spirit’s moonshine origin and the original label used by the McRae family, who were the first to sell moonshine in these parts. If you’d like to know more, there’s a Hokonui Moonshine Museum in Gore (Tel.: +64 3 208 9908), but the Old Hokonui whisky is widely available retail. The whisky is very light in colour with a fair whack of shortbread and yeasty notes on the nose and roasted barley aromas on the palate. It’s an interesting spirit and I believe that no collection of whiskies is complete without a bottle with the distinctive skull and crossbones motif.
For more information:
The Southern Distilling Company
Stafford Street, Timaru, New Zealand
Tel.: +64 3 686 6515
e-mail: spirits@xtra.co.nz
Web: http://www.hokonuiwhiskey.com
Fleurs Place
Fleur Sullivan is a real personality, an inventive, self-assured woman who isn’t afraid to wield a hammer, use a saw, fillet a fish or crack a crab. She’s also a wonderful cook and serves the daily catch to her patrons in her ‘cathedral’ style shack on the beach at Moreaki. Her seafood is so fresh it almost jumps off the plate and the way she serves it leaves the salty, sea flavours to talk for themselves. If you’ve tasted Green Lip mussels in Australia and found them tough (they’re par-cooked to comply with Australian import laws) then try the fresh ones here! She also has a smokehouse where seafood (especially leftover bits like wings and fins) are smoked and her Kaimoana Cold Platter shows off a variety of smoked and marinated delicacies unlike anywhere else. Fleurs Place specialises in seafood (obviously) but Titi (mutton birds), beef fillet and lamb shanks are always on the menu. This is a fabulous restaurant, in a glorious location with wonderful views. If you’re travelling south and stopping to admire the Moreaki boulders (only 5 minutes away by car) then eat at Fleurs Place!
For more information:
Fleurs Place
Moreaki, New Zealand
Tel.: +64 3 439 4480
e-mail: mail@fleursplace.com
Web: http://www.fleursplace.com/
Larnach Castle
Larnach Castle was built by William Larnach, a rich merchant and politician, in 1871, and bought (as little more than a dilapidated shell) by the Barker family in 1967. Since then it’s been their mission, with the help of family, friends and locals, to restore it to its former glory, even buying back original furniture piece by piece at sales and auctions. The castle is about 10km outside Dunedin on top of a ridge on the Otago Peninsula, overlooking Otago Harbour. The magnificent views and the atmosphere of a ‘real’ castle make one feel rather regal. The 12 guest rooms are located on the seaward side of the castle in the lodge and converted stables and a separate wing (built by Larnach as a birthday gift for his daughter) houses a café. Dinner is served at a communal table in the castle’s grand dining room, with themed menus served throughout the year. When we were there it was ‘Scottish month’, and we dined on Cullen Skink, Haggis and Cranachen. A castle tour is included in the accommodation package and the view from the castle’s tower is breathtaking. Rates are very reasonable and we thoroughly recommend this ‘royal’ experience.
For more information:
Larnach Castle
Camp Road, Otago Peninsula, Dunedin, New Zealand
Tel.: +64 3 476 1616
e-mail: larnach@larnachcastle.co.nz
Web: http://www.larnachcastle.co.nz
Green Man Brew
Life wouldn’t be complete without a cleansing ale and Green Man Brewery from Dunedin make terrific organic beer. If you only have the chance to try one beer in New Zealand, then the Green Man Best Bitter is the one. Traditionally brewed it is best consumed a little warmer than we are used to in Australia to give all the flavours a chance to really come out.
Restaurateurs interested in stocking Green Man Brew can contact Steve Lambert in Leichhardt on lambert111@hotmail.com
For more information:
Green Man Brewery
Tel.: +64 3 477 7755
e-mail: sales@greenmanbrewery.co.nz
Web: http://www.greenmanbrewery.co.nz
Inland (Lake Wanaka, Central
Otago & Lake Tekapo)
Whare Kea Lodge &
Chalet
Whare Kea is Maori for ‘the house of the kea’ and my friend Sally thinks this is the most beautiful lodge in the world. Having grown up in Switzerland I wouldn’t go quite that far, but Whare Kea Lodge & Chalet are definitely right up there. Situated next to Rippon Vineyard (the most photographed vineyard in Central Otago, or so they tell us) on Lake Wanaka, Whare Kea is isolated and very private, it accommodates a maximum of twelve guests (no kids), with glorious views over the lake and the snow-capped mountains. A superb spot with first class amenities: super comfortable beds, a magnificent view from the beautifully appointed rooms, Aesop toiletries in the bathrooms, wireless internet, plenty of space and friendly, helpful, professional staff. The chef, James Stapley, knows his produce, how to shop and how to cook. His food was the best we sampled in New Zealand and that alone makes a visit to Whare Kea Lodge worthwhile. Pan Fried Venison with Red Wine Risotto was even the Australian Gourmet Pages Dish of the Month for May 2007. For total seclusion, take a flight up to Whare Kea Chalet, nestled in the Buchanan Mountain Range with views over Mount Cook and Mount Aspiring. While not inexpensive, both the Lodge and Chalet offer incredible value for money. We love it!
For more information contact:
Rebecca Stettner
Whare Kea Lodge & Chalet
Mount Aspiring Road, Lake Wanaka, New Zealand
+64 3 443 1400
Web: http://www.wharekealodge.com/
Wood Fuel Stoves
If you love the idea of an AGA stove in your kitchen, but baulk at the price of having it imported from England, you might want to consider the New Zealand alternative: Wagener stoves (James has one at Whare Kea). They are incredibly well made (guess the New Zealand temperatures help), heavy-duty and clean burning. Contact: http://www.wagenerstoves.co.nz
Central Otago
Wineries
A trip to Central Otago wouldn’t be complete without drinking some serious local Pinot Noir and visiting some of the local wineries. We visited between the summer and winter seasons, so most of the cellar doors were closed and we had to drink all we could in restaurants. There were many wines we enjoyed but one stood out:
Wooing Tree Vineyard
Wooing Tree is a vineyard in Cromwell (on the edge of town) with a view across the vines towards a magnificent tree, for which the vineyard is named. Like most of the vineyards in this area Wooing Tree is young, with 2005 being their first vintage. They are a Pinot Noir specialist and, as their business card proclaims, they do ‘Pinot with a passion’! Steve Farquharson’s 2005 Wooing Tree Pinot Noir is by far the best Central Otago Pinot that I have tried. I even pitched it, side by side (blind), with an icon New Zealand Pinot, and it won hands down. It’s a powerful wine, full of dark berries on the nose with typically feral aromas on the nose. On the palate the dark berries are confirmed, with a hint of liquorice root and some serious cigar box and forest floor flavours. This is a wine I adore and it is available in small quantities in some Australian restaurants. If you see it on a wine list, try it! The 2005 is also bottled in Magnums, but only available from cellar door. The 2006 is not far away…
For more information:
Wooing Tree Vineyard
7 Westmoreland Place, Cromwell, Central Otago, New Zealand
Tel.: +64 3 445 4142
e-mail: contact@wooingtree.co.nz
Web: http://www.wooingtree.co.nz
New Zealand Saffron
I suppose this shouldn’t surprise me, seeing that we grow saffron in Tasmania and some of the best comes from cold climate countries like Switzerland, but they grow wonderful saffron in Bannockburn, Central Otago. Marketed under the Heart of the Desert Saffron brand it is supplied to most of the top restaurants and lodges on the South Island. We first tasted it when James Stapley cooked for us at Whare Kea Lodge and it is indeed world-class.
For more information:
Heart of Desert Saffron
Huffadine & Watson, Maurice Watson, Bannockburn, New Zealand
Tel.: +64 3 445 1909
e-mail: desert.saffron@xtra.co.nz
Kohan Restaurant
The town of Tekapo (Maori: teka = sleeping mat and po = night) on the shores of Lake Tekapo is obviously a winter sports centre catering mainly for tourists. Accommodation is dubious, as are most eating places around town. The Kohan Restaurant is an exception. Run by Japanese (mainly for the Japanese tourists I suspect) it caters for a demanding clientele and the food is terrific, although service was a bit too efficient for our liking. We ordered a range of dishes and not quite 5 minutes later they ALL arrived. Nevertheless, the food was terrific, the sushi fresh, the tempura crisp, the tataki succulent and the miso moreish. If you find yourself in Tekapo, eat at Kohan Restaurant, you won’t regret it.
Koahn Restaurant
Main Street, Tekapo, New Zealand
Tel.: +64 3 680 6688
e-mail: kohan@xtra.co.nz
Web: http://www.laketekapo.cc/kohan/